Maître De Chai | Vinous Scores
This January, we had the opportunity to pour wines for Antonio Galloni of Vinous. This was our first foray into wine scores, and we are grateful for his vivid descriptions and kind feedback on a mix of wines from 2020 through 2022.
“I was super impressed with the wines I tasted from Maître de Chai. Marty Winters and Alex Pitts met as young chefs working in some of California’s most prestigious kitchens. Over the years, both of their career paths led to wine. Winters and Pitts founded Maître de Chai in 2012 and have quietly built their range since then. The wines draw from a number of sites across several appellations in northern California, all done in a style that emphasizes freshness and verve. As readers will discover, a number of wines in this lineup are truly compelling, most notably the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Gala Vineyard, which may very well be the single best value in Napa Valley Cabernet today.
The article linked (subscription required) gives his overview of the vintage & area.
2021 Cabernet Sauvignon - Gala Vineyard (96)
“The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Gala Vineyard is fabulous. It emerges from a terraced vineyard at 1,800 feet in elevation in Napa Valley, just above the Coombsville AVA. Rich, dark and beautifully structured, the 2021 possesses notable pedigree and character. Black cherry, plum, gravel, licorice, bay leaf and espresso all race across the palate. Readers who enjoy old-school Napa Cabernets will adore this. This wine, if sold in Napa Valley, would cost four to five times as much. Don’t miss it!”
2020 Cabernet Sauvignon - Gala Vineyard (92)
“The 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Gala Vineyard is a dark, brooding wine. Black cherry, mocha, spice, leather, game and wild herbs add to the wine’s somber personality. The tannins are a bit chunky and there is a slight lack of focus, but those are small critiques given the conditions. This is a very good wine for the year.”
2022 Zinfandel - Stampede Vineyard (93)
“The 2022 Zinfandel Stampede Vineyard is fabulous. It is sourced from a site in Lodi planted in the 1920s. Pliant and supple, with gorgeous balance, the 2022 impresses right out of the gate. The combination of vibrant fruit and light to medium-bodied structure makes for an absolutely compelling Zinfandel. There is a purity to this wine that is so striking. The body and textural feel reminds me of wines from the 1950s and 1960s that I have tasted, naturally as mature wines.
2022 Sauvignon Blanc - Ellison Vineyard (93)
“The 2022 Sauvignon Blanc Ellison Vineyard emerges from a site on Sonoma Mountain, one of the most distinctive appellations in Sonoma Valley. Rich and ample, with notable textural intensity, the 2022 is superb. Readers will find a Sauvignon Blanc of uncommon complexity and pedigree. The riper side of the variety comes through, and yet all the elements are so well balanced. It’s a fabulous wine in every way, especially for the year. Don’t miss it.
2022 Chardonnay - Wheeler Vineyard (92)
“The 2022 Chardonnay Wheeler Vineyard is a bit more finessed and also more tropical than the 2021 tasted alongside it. Tangerine oil, marzipan, spice and white flowers lend an exotic flair, yet it also offers lovely freshness. A year of experience working with this site paid off handsomely. This is a big step up from the 2021.
2021 Chardonnay - Wheeler Vineyard (89)
“The 2021 Chardonnay Wheeler Vineyard is a potent, savory wine that shows the more earthy side of Chardonnay, with primary fruit pushed into the background. This site, planted in 1971 on limestone, yields a distinctive Chardonnay. Dried pear, spice, chamomile and dried herbs linger. This is a fine debut.
NV Sparkling Solera - Michael Mara Vineyard (93)
“The NV Sparkling Solera Michael Mara Vineyard is fabulous. The blend of seven vintages yields a wine endowed with notable textural richness and a real feeling of breadth that is palpable. Hints of apricot, marzipan, tangerine peel and spice infuse the Solera with notable complexity in both flavor and textures.“
NV Sparkling Chenin Blanc (90)
“The NV (base 2021) Sparkling Chenin Blanc Wilson Vineyard is superb. Creamy and understated, with tons of varietal character, this is wonderfully inviting. Bright acids, pear, chamomile and mint are some of the notes that take shape. Bottling under low pressure yields a very fine mousse. The only thing this could use is more persistence on the finish, but it is undoubtedly well done. Dosage is 2 grams per liter.“
2022 Red Table Wine (89)
“The 2022 Red Table Wine, 100% Grenache grown on sandy soils, is a very pretty wine done in an ethereal, understated style. Sweet red cherry, mint, rose petal and spice all grace this exquisite, understated wine. The 2022 is a bit light, but it is undeniably appealing.”